Peeling Apples with Chef Andre Soltner

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If you’re lucky enough in life, a time will come in your career when something so cool happens you just have to pinch yourself. Today I had one of those moments. I peeled apples with Chef Andre Soltner.

What’s that you say, peeling apples? Am I supposed to think that’s a big deal? Yes my friends, sharing a kitchen with one of the most acclaimed and beloved French chefs of all time is a huge deal. I’d be happy doing his dishes let alone touching food he is going to prepare.

Andre Soltner is the dean of classic studies at The French Culinary Institute and is kind enough to share his incredible culinary knowledge with our students a few times a year by doing demonstrations. This week he is showcasing a classic Alsatian menu featuring dishes from his hometown, including an onion tart and apple beignets. And the best part is, he still does all his own prep.

Chef Andre is like the culinary genius grandfather you always wanted. He is kind, gracious, and a wonderful teacher. He could cook circles around you, so when you’re in his kitchen it’s “yes chef” and do as your told.

However, being the Chatty Cathy that I am, I seized the moment and asked him as many questions as I could. When I mentioned that I used to be in Human Resources in my past life and fired people on sad occasions, he shared a fact that I found astonishing: in 40 years running the kitchen at the world-famous restaurant Lutece, he never once fired anyone!

If you know anything about the restaurant business and temperament of chefs, that is almost unbelievable. Chef Andre hired the right people and he treated them like family. One of his closest friends, Chef Jacques Coustar, worked for him for all 40 years, many others more than 30.

I asked him what he thought about today’s kitchen culture (where cooks hardly stay in one place a year let alone 40) and whether it was the chefs to blame or the abundance of choice and he said, “I can’t really speak for anyone else, I did things my own way, but you are also talking to a man who’s been married to the same woman for 45 years!” And there you have it.

After spending a brief afternoon peeling apples and talking about life with Chef Andre it is easy to see how he inspired and led so many cooks. Loyalty is a rare thing in today’s culinary world. I’m not sure there will ever be partnerships like Andre and Jacques’ in American kitchens, but I’m also not sure there will ever be anyone like Chef Andre.

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  1. [...] of judges, which included Ed McFarland of Ed’s Lobster Bar, Melissa O’Donnell of SaltBar, and Dean Andre Soltner. I had the pleasure of playing the role of both moderator and sous chef to Chef Rob and enjoyed [...]

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