Archive for How To

Making Japanese Udon noodles with Chef Hiroko Shimbo

Today kicked off our 5-day Japanese Essentials course at
The International Culinary Center with Chef Hiroko Shimbo and we jumped right into one of my favorite dishes, udon noodles. Chef Hiroko showed us how to create chewy, slippery, and delicious udon noodles using a few simple ingredients: AP flour, water, and salt. She made a cold broth with dashi (kelp/fish stock), sesame paste, shoyu (soy sauce), and mirin that was packed with umami flavor. The noodles were topped with some crisp cucumber, tomatoes, wakame, and scallion and finished with some ginger juice for spice.

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Check out this video where Chef Hiroko shows us the proper technique for rolling the dough, and note how her petite frame has her standing on top of a ladder to roll the dough!

Tomorrow we will be grilling yakitori on a Binchotan grill which is always a good time!

No regrets: how to turn your passion for cooking into something bigger

Chef Craig Koketsu of Quality Meats is pouring his love into some hash browns

I was speaking with my Grandmother on the phone this past weekend and she said something so striking to me that I couldn’t shake it from my mind. She is always sharing her pride for the leap I made and risks I took to do what makes me happy, but this time she said, “Tara, I think my life would have been so different if I knew how to cook.” I didn’t really know how to interpret that comment at the time. Did she want to entertain more? Be healthier? More independent?  Provide a skill to pass down to her children? Have a bigger passion? I think ultimately the true meaning is likely a combination of all of those things.

When I hung up the phone I felt both sadness and happiness. I was sad that my Grandmother had a regret about something so simple, but I was grateful that I won’t carry the same one.

In today’s crazy world it can be hard to see the silver lining, but times like these should force all of us to think about what really makes us happy. For me, it’s clearly cooking. I was fortunate enough to have that “ah-ha” moment at a young age and the support and means to run after my dreams here in New York. I know that isn’t the reality for everyone, and enrolling in an expensive culinary school is not feasible for many people. I went big, but that’s not the only way to do what you love.

As the fall season quickly approaches and the leaves begin to change there is a sense of rejuvenation in the air and a feeling that old feelings and fears can be shed so new and better ones can grow. Now is the time to do your own reflecting and get real with yourself and what you want to accomplish. If cooking is your passion and you want to find a way to make it a bigger part of your life, consider these suggestions below for inspiration. While culinary school can be the ultimate journey for some, don’t let that stop you from going after it.

Cookbook’s

Cookbooks from Julia Child's personal collection

It sounds simple, but studying the ins and outs of cooking—from the basics to the cuisine you most enjoy—can be learned from cookbooks. While you don’t receive the live direction of a chef instructor, the well written books can be a great launch pad. Bookstores today are overwhelmed with cookbooks that highlight quantity over quality, but for getting started and mastering the essentials may I recommend:

Stage in a restaurant

Those who love to cook don’t necessarily want to be cooks in a restaurant, but if it’s something you have considered and want to explore before taking the plunge into culinary school, approach the owner of a restaurant you frequent or admire and ask about assisting in the kitchen for free, also known at a stage. Let them know you’re seriously considering a culinary education and want to understand what it’s like to work in a restaurant first. You may be turned down but keep asking. Free labor is hard to come by and many chefs will jump at the chance for someone to help them with basic prep at no extra cost. You won’t have your hands in too much action, but you’ll be able to observe the atmosphere, labor, sweat, and hard work that goes into it. It might exhilarate you, it might terrify you. Either way, it’s helpful to experience it before making a career-changing decision. Who knows, you might be a quick study and find yourself a new teacher.

Community college or short-term programs

All culinary schools are not created equal and attending a prestigious program like the one I did at The French Culinary Institute is not for everyone, especially if you live outside of New York City.  Many community colleges offer culinary programs at a fraction of the cost and can provide you with a solid skill base. Culinary schools also offer short-term essentials programs that can set you up with the skills you need to get started and may be all that you need to break into the business. The most important thing to keep in mind with all of these programs is to do your homework. Research the school’s reputation, practices, and graduates to ensure they are in line with what you’re looking for.

Catering/private chef work

If you’re someone who loves to entertain and cook for friends and family but don’t want to cook in a traditional restaurant setting, pursuing a career as a caterer or private chef might be of interest to you. However, this is one of those paths that sounds glamorous but is an incredible amount of work and requires a great deal of business acumen. I would suggest you look for part-time work on the weekend or evenings with a local caterer or ask someone you know who does private chef work if you can help them with prep, shopping, etc. Seeing what they do first hand will give you a better idea of what’s involved and will allow you to ask questions about the business side of things.

Event volunteering

The Grand Tasting Village at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival

Volunteering at food-centric events can be a great way to explore nontraditional career paths in the culinary world. Events provide an opportunity for front of house work, culinary prep and serving, product promotions, and logistical operations. Keep tabs on events that are coming up in your area and reach out to event organizers or volunteer coordinators to see where you could be of help. Some events will provide freelance paid opportunities, while others will be volunteer-only. These events provide you with a chance to network with chefs, restaurateurs, event planners, caterers and more, and can also fulfill your culinary aspirations if what you’re seeking is more of a hobby.

Connecting current career to food-related business

When you think about the food industry it is so much more than just restaurants. In most food-related businesses there is a need for a number of positions that don’t work with food directly. Whether it’s sales, accounting, operations, or marketing you can blend your passion for food with your current career aspirations by seeking a similar position. These businesses are not only seeking people with skills in their area of expertise, but with enthusiasm for the end product.

School lunch programs

One of the hottest topics right in the food world right now is the state of school lunch programs in our public schools. There are a number of nonprofit organizations and parent groups that have taken it on as their mission to improve the quality of food being served to children and are even getting in the kitchen to make a difference.  Wellness in the Schools is a great example of a nationwide group making a difference. They are frequently in need of people to assist with culinary classes and lunch program activities on both a paid and volunteer basis. If you are passionate about education and food, getting involved with a group like this could be a great fit.

Community food groups

On an equally important scale, hunger-related issues in this country are sadly growing by the day and the number of children and adults who go hungry are staggering. Soup kitchens and food banks are needed more than ever and their growing demand requires an increased need for volunteers. There are opportunities to cook and prepare meals for families, solicit community businesses for donations, and organize fundraisers. Organizations like Share our Strength and Food Bank for New York City provide an outlet for giving back through a love for cooking and feeding others.

Culinary school

The ultimate destination for those who are serious about cooking for a living is culinary school. I am of course biased on this subject and am a propionate of a formal education for those that want to learn in a concentrated environment. Defending the investment is an entirely different post and specific questions regarding where to go and why are something I’m always happy to answer, but the most important thing I can touch on here is to again, do your homework and make sure that the quality of what you will learn matches up to both the time and financial investment it requires. Taking part in any of the above activities should be done in advance to ensure that culinary school will be a means to the end you are seeking.

Have any other suggestions for keeping your culinary passions alive? I would love to hear from you and keep adding to this list!

The Incredible Edible Egg, lessons from Master Chef Jacques Pépin

The Dean of Special Program’s at the French Culinary Institute, Master Chef Jacques Pépin, recently spent some time with students and alumni in the International Culinary Theater to talk about life’s wonder ingredient: eggs!

Eggs are incredible for a number of reasons—not only are they packed with protein and nutrients, but they can thicken, stabilize, emulsify, and add flavor. Whether hard-boiled, over-easy, scrambled, whipped into a meringue, or the secret to a souffle, eggs are an essential ingredient every cook should know how to work with.

A master of classical French cooking, Chef Pépin has been working with eggs his entire life and introduced some very helpful tips and simple recipes to the crowd of eager listeners. Here are the highlights:

On boiling eggs:

  • When soft-boiling or hard-boiling an egg, use the tip of a pin to poke a tiny hole in the top of the egg. This allows pressure to release as the egg is cooking, preventing cracking and helping reduce the sulfuric smell and gray lining around the yolk.
  • As soon as your eggs are cooked, place them in a bowl of ice water to shock them for at least 15 minutes. This slows down the cooking process and allows the sulfur inside the egg to escape into the water, again preventing that stinky smell and reducing the chances of getting the gray lining.

On separating whites and yolks:

  • If you separate whites by passing the yolk back and forth in the shell you leave behind 20% of the whites and run the risk of breaking the yolk. If you are working with a recipe calling for whites and don’t get them all, your ratios may be negatively impacted and that souffle or meringue may not come out right.
  • Instead, separate the whites and yolks while the eggs are cold using your hands (clean of course!), passing the yolk back and forth. This method works well because the cold egg prevents the yolk from breaking as easily and you will drain off almost all the whites.

On mayonnaise:

  • According to Chef Pépin, there is nothing quite like fresh mayonnaise, and I have to agree. Simply add a few yolks into a bowl, add a dash of vinegar, and stream in canola oil slowly while whisking vigorously until a smooth emulsion forms. Season to your tastes with salt and pepper and serve and use within a day. Takes a matter of minutes and is leaps and bounds better than that jarred stuff.

Chef Pépin also shared with us a recipe for his mother’s take on deviled eggs, what he calls Eggs Janet. Janet, his mother, is 96 and still a powerful presence in his life. She makes a garlicky filling for the eggs, stuffs them, then sautes them in a little butter to achieve a golden crust. She serves them over a quick mustard sauce for a simple but tasty egg dish.

Eggs Janet

Recipe courtesy Chef Jacques Pépin

Ingredients

4 hard-boiled eggs
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Chives
Salt and pepper
Milk
Butter

For mustard sauce:

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Canola oil
Chopped fresh herbs (chervil, parsley, and chives work great)
Salt and pepper

Procedure

  1. Slice the hard-boiled eggs in half lengthwise and remove the yolks using a small spoon. Place 3 of the yolks in a bowl and reserve the fourth yolk for the mustard sauce.
  2. Mash the yolks with the garlic and chives until a smooth paste forms. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour in milk, a little at a time, until the mixture is creamy. Spoon the filling into the egg whites.
  3. Melt some butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Add eggs, filling side down, and gently saute until the surface is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove and serve over mustard sauce.

For mustard sauce:

Whisk egg yolk with Dijon mustard until incorporated. Stream in canola oil and whisk until an emulsion forms. Stir in herbs and season with salt and pepper to taste.

How to prepare baby artichokes

The artichoke is a strange looking edible thistle that’s famous for its green petals and cone-like shape, but perhaps is best known for its ability to intimidate even the most confident home cook. There has always been something about artichokes that scared me. How do I trim them? Am I trimming too much? How do I stop them from turning brown? What parts can I even eat?

For a while I let these fears get the best of me, even a lesson in artichoke trimming in culinary school left me feeling nervous. With the onset of spring and the sudden bounty of artichokes in the market I decided it was high time I got over my fear of artichokes and gave them another try. I spotted what seemed like a simple recipe in a Le Creuset cookbook I have that incorporated my favorite flavors (lemon, garlic, wine, thyme) and suggested using baby artichokes.

Friends, baby artichokes are the perfect way to get over your fear of preparing artichokes. These small thistles are easier to work with than regular-sized artichokes because they don’t have a hairy choke in the center that needs to be removed and almost all of their leaves are edible. All you have to do is peel back a few leaves, trim the stalk, and chop off the top 1/3 and they are ready to go.

The baby artichoke is actually not any younger than a regular-sized artichoke. It even comes from the same plant that bears the large, one pound gems you find in the market. An artichoke plant can send up a variety of different sized stalks, some large, some medium, and some small. Because their leaves are less meaty than the larger artichokes, you can often find them for far less money, especially between March and May when they’re in season.

Here is a step by step photo guide to preparing baby artichokes to help ease your fear of these delicious and tender vegetables.

Step 1: Peel back the first 2 or 3 layers of tough petals, carefully ripping them off.

Step 2: Cut off the tip of the stalk, leaving about 1/3. Then, using a peeler, peel away the tough fibrous layers leaving a thin stalk.

Step 3: Slice off the top 1/3 of the artichoke, which removes the pointy tips on the petals.

Step 4: If desired, cut the baby artichoke in half for quicker cooking. It can also be baked or steamed whole.

Step 5: Place trimmed artichokes immediately in a bowl of acidulated water (water and lemon juice) to prevent them from browning.

Once your artichokes are soaking in acidulated water, you can take your time and get ready to prepare them however you wish. I will be posting a recipe using baby artichokes from my latest Weekend Warrior column next, so stay tuned for a simple and delicious way to enjoy them.

If you can’t locate baby artichokes, or prefer to use the larger artichokes, the same rules apply as above, with the exception that you have to remove the hairy choke in the center. I have found this is easiest to do after cooking them, but for now, I’m sticking with the babies! Let me know if you have any other helpful tips for working with artichokes in the comments section below.

Team Martha shares perfect pie tips + rhubarb raspberry galette step-by-step

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When I stopped by “Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts” Pop-Up shop this weekend I got a first hand look at the new book (which is a must-have) and had the opportunity to talk pie with Sarah Carey of Everyday Food and Shira Bocar of Whole Living as they made mini rhubarb and raspberry galettes.

Here are some of their tips for making simple free-form pies:

  • Free form pies, like galettes and crostatas, are versatile and easy, and should be in every home cooks arsenal. They don’t require a pie or baking dish and can be made as big or small as you like. Simply shape the dough around your filling by hand, brush with an egg wash, and dust with a sweet or savory topping.
  • When making free-form pies, cut out square shapes from your dough (see photos below) instead of circles; this gets you more bang for your buck and prevents wasted dough scraps.
  • If your dough is soft or warm after shaping your pies, don’t put them straight in the oven; this will cause them to open up and send your filling all over the place. Instead, chill them in fridge for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour and then bake away.
  • Mini galettes are the perfect make-ahead dessert for a party; assemble them on a sheet tray lined with parchment, wrap in plastic, and store in the fridge until ready to bake. They cook fast and will keep you with your guests instead of in the kitchen.
  • You can fill a galette with just about anything—sweet fruits or savory vegetables—but it’s important to remember how juicy your filling is. If working with juicy fillings like berries or tomatoes, use cornstarch as your binding agent. If working with firmer fillings like apples, stone fruits, or squash, use flour, which has less starch, to hold everything together.

Now that spring is here, rhubarb and raspberry galettes are the perfect dessert to celebrate the season. Check out the step-by-step photos of Shira assembling the galettes below and click here to get the recipe from MarthaStewart.com.

Step 1: Make your filling. This has fresh raspberries, rhubarb, sugar, & cornstarch.

Step 2: Roll your dough into a rectangular shape and cut out square shapes.

Step 3: Place a generous amount of filling in the center of each square.

Step 4: Working in a circle, fold the edges over the filling, pinching to seal the edges.

Step 5: Brush the top of the dough w/ egg wash and sprinkle w/ coarse sugar. Bake @ 400 for 30 minutes, then 375 for 15 minutes more.

The science and technique of Parisian macarons

Piped macarons

Is there anything more adorable and elegant than a Parisian macaron? Not to be confused with the American macaroon, an equally delicious coconut confection, these light, crispy, chewy, and sweet treats are all the rage in Paris (or so I’m told, still planning that trip) and have become popular here in the States. Their ingredients are simple, but the technique is complicated and can be tricky, which is why you will pay a pretty penny for them here.

As part of my Weekend Warrior project over at MarcusSamuelsson.com I featured a recipe for pink macarons, which was a summary of my day-long adventure of making macarons (check out the original post here). For those of you who are interested in the science, lure, and technique of making them, I have posted a detailed explanation of the ingredients and process involved. It’s lengthy, but should be very helpful to those first-time macaron makers.

By no means do I hype this up as a way to intimidate you from making them, it’s well worth the effort and for those of you who enjoy baking, will be a lot of fun. Sure they may not come out perfect the first time, but it’s simple to make a new batch and try again. Plus, your friends and family will be so impressed! Tap into your inner fearless foodie attitude and try them yourself!

French vs. Italian meringue

First things first—macarons are meringue folded with almond flour and confectioners sugar, piped and baked. There are three different meringues, French, Italian, and Swiss, and when it comes to making macarons, the two methods used are French or Italian.

A French meringue (which I used) is the least complicated and is simply egg whites whipped with granulated sugar to stiff peaks. An Italian meringue requires more precision; sugar and water is heated to 244 degrees F (also known as the soft ball stage) while simultaneously egg whites are being whipped to soft peaks. The hot sugar syrup is then trickled into the whipping egg whites until stiff peaks form. The benefit of using the Italian method, as the French macaron master Pierre Hermé does, is that it gives the meringue more stability, increasing the chances that your macaroon will rise just so.

I chose the French method because I a) don’t have a KitchenAid stand mixer which is essential to the Italian method, and b) wanted to see if it could be done the French way. There is a secret ingredient you can add to your French meringue to help stability—egg white powder.

Egg Whites

Egg whites are the main ingredient of macarons so it’s important to understand how to use them. It is best to use egg whites that have aged at room temperature for a few days, or at least 24 hours. This means leaving the egg whites in an open container on the counter. Older whites are thinner and foam more rapidly than fresh ones.

It’s also important that your whites have no traces of fat in them. When you’re separating your eggs initially, be careful not to let any yolk into the whites, this will make it more difficult to achieve the stiff foam you desire and the overworking will decrease stability. If you see any yolk, scoop it out with a spoon the best you can. Separating cold eggs should help prevent the yolk from breaking.

A meringue is an egg white foam sweetened with sugar not only for flavor, but stability. According to Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking, sugar “contributes reinforcement of its own in the form of fine but solid, cotton-candy-like strands of dry sugar.” When you add the sugar is also critical. McGee explains that whipping the whites to a foamy-state before adding the sugar will allow the egg proteins to unfold, something sugar hinders. The picture below shows the foamy state you should look for.

Egg white powder, as I mentioned above, is dehydrated egg whites. In theory you could use all egg white powder, add water, and whisk to create the same effect. By adding the egg white powder to the fresh whites you are adding another layer of stability to your meringue. You can find egg white powder at speciality bake shops or online at Amazon. For those of you weary of using fresh whites, egg white powder is pasteurized and is a great substitute. It’s also great in making royal icing.

Soft/Stiff Peaks

The terminology soft and stiff peaks is used a lot in baking texts but can be confusing to inexperienced bakers. Soft peaks are when egg whites are whipped to a stage where the whites are fluffy and glossy, and when you pick up your whisk the foam hangs off the end and droops down, almost running off. Stiff peaks are achieved with continued whisking until the whites firm up, looking like whipped cream, and when you pick up your whisk the foam stands up on the end and slightly hooks (see picture below). Once stiff there is no need to continue whisking. Stiff peaks are required in macarons as their stiffness increases stability.

I used a hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment to whip my whites, but you could certainly use a stand mixer (which I recommend) or by hand, but be prepared for a solid arm workout!

Almond Flour

Almond meal/flour is simply raw blanched whole almonds that have been ground into a fine powder. Next to egg whites and sugar, they are the main ingredient in macarons and give them their unique nutty, almond flavor. If you have a high-speed food processor like a Robot Coupe you could make your own flour, but for ease and simplicity I would recommend buying it. I used a bag I picked up at Trader Joe’s that had large traces of almond skin in it, which I tried to sift out, but still ended up in my macarons (which you can see in the picture). If I were to do it again, I would but a fine ground version, such as Bob’s Red Mill.

Exact Measurements

As with all baking, measuring your ingredients exactly is important. I used a scale to measure everything out in grams to ensure accuracy. I highly recommend picking up a digital scale at your local kitchen supply or hardware store. It will cost you under $30 and will save you even more on wasted ingredients from things you over-baked. My recipes below are listed in grams, however I did include a conversion if you want to go by cups and spoons. I cannot guarantee the results if you don’t measure with a scale.

Incorporating Wet and Dry Ingredients

Combining the wet and dry ingredients is usually where macaron making can go wrong. Keeping the meringue fluffy while incorporating the flour, sugar, and salt is a careful art. In my research I found that each person had their own count of how many strokes make the perfect macaron. I’m not sure there is an exact answer to this, each batch I made took a different number of strokes to get the ideal texture, ranging from 25 to 45.

The proper technique is to fold the batter by scraping a rubber spatula around the side of the bowl while simultaneously turning the bowl in the opposite direction. What you don’t want to do is stir it; this will break down the meringue you worked so hard to create and deflate your batter. You shouldn’t need to go past 50 strokes, but look for the whites to just incorporate, leaving a few traces of white with no loose flour and a glossy texture as in the picture below.

Another way to test the proper doneness of your batter is tilt your bowl; the batter should slowly run down like flowing

The finishing touch

A lot of things have changed about the way I cook since beginning culinary school last year. I have a greater understanding and practical knowledge of techniques, ingredients, and the science behind why things happen in the kitchen, all of which have made me a better home cook, but the thing that’s made the biggest difference for me is knowing how to put the finishing touches on my dishes, taking them from good to great.

The reason food tastes so good at restaurants is because chef’s understand that the lightest sprinkling of finishing salt, or the drizzle of a high-quality oil can enhance and heighten existing flavors, making your taste buds dance. This concept has been on my mind a lot lately, so I’ve put together a list of ways you can finish your dishes at home, no fancy equipment required. The ingredients I’ve listed below are likely to already be in your pantry, but if not, a small investment in them now will lead to big returns at the table.

Top finishing touches

Good olive oil

This sounds very Ina Garten, but she is 100% right, there is a time and place for good-quality olive oil. While the low-cost grocery store brand is OK for sautéing and roasting, a nice, fragrant, luscious olive oil is essential to adding a smooth finish to pastas, seared meats, soups, and salad dressings. However, you don’t want to use the good stuff when applying heat during cooking, that will only drown-out its flavor and render it just as good as your cheap stuff-save it for drizzling at the end.

What to look for: If you have the chance, stop by a gourmet shop to sniff and sip their different oils, and look for oils that smell almost grassy or herbaceous and have a smooth mouth-feel with a peppery kick in the back of your throat.

Recommended brands: My top picks include O&Co. and La Tourangelle.

Finishing salts

Tasting your food during cooking and adjusting the seasoning is the number one way to make your food taste great. And while kosher salt is what you want to have on hand to season your food before and during, the finishing touch should come from a finishing salt like sea salt, or as the French say, Fleur de Sel. It has a light, flaky texture and while its crystals may look large, they melt as soon as they hit your tongue, leaving a hint of salt and accentuating the natural flavors of your food. There are a million and one varieties of finishing salts available today, smoky, spicy, and even sweet, but you can’t go wrong with a simple and pure sea salt for sprinkling. It is also absolutely perfect on chocolate!

What to look for: Fleur de Sel has a delicate, granular texture that melts in your mouth and is great for all purpose salting. Flake salt, such as Maldon, is dry and flaky and can give a slight crunch without being too salty.

Recommended brands: In the grocery store, look for La Baleine, and if you’re looking for a wide variety of flavors and quality, check out gourmet retailer The Meadow.

Acid

One of the most underutilized flavor agents in home cooking is acid. Whether it comes from citrus fruit, vinegars, or even sour cream, a touch of acid can really tie together the flavors of your dish and provide that missing piece. The important thing to remember when using acid to finish a dish is that a little goes a long way. Whether you’re making a sauce, salad dressing, or even dessert, try adding a drop of acid, such as lemon juice, when you do your final seasoning taste test and adjust as needed, you might be surprised by the difference it makes. It is also a lifesaver if you have over-salted something, adding a few drops can balance out your heavy hand.

What to look for: During your trip to the market, always make sure to put a few lemons or some other citrus fruits in your cart that you can use throughout the week. Vinegars come in a wide assortment of flavors and varieties, but you can’t go wrong with these staples: balsamic, red wine, white wine, and rice wine (or mirin). Balsamic and red wine vinegars are great in Italian and Mediterranean cooking, while white wine is the perfect all-purpose acid. Rice wine vinegar is common in Asian cooking and has a sweet and light flavor that is perfect for stir-fry’s, salads, and noodle dishes.

Recommended brands: O&Co. aged balsamic vinegars, Pompeian red and white wine vinegars, and Marukan rice wine vinegar.

Butter

If there is one ”fear” I learned to overcome in culinary school it was using butter. I had always shied away from it, or at least the real stuff for health reasons, but as it turns out, real butter (used in moderation of course) is far healthier than any of that fake or “healthy” butter. Plus, a tablespoon or two added to a sauce or seared meat can work magic for flavor. When making a pan sauce, stir in a pat of butter after it has reduced to add a touch of richness and smooth out the flavor. When searing proteins, add some butter to the pan with fresh herbs after you take your pan off the heat and baste to seal in that crunchy exterior you worked so hard to get. See my recipe for pan-seared bison steaks for a how-to.

What to look for: Real butter. Not I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter, or Country Crock, or any of that spreadable processed stuff. Look for unsalted, stick sweet cream butter. Beware of brands that list “artificial butter flavoring” or “natural butter flavors” in the ingredient list.

Recommended brands: For your every day, I love Land O Lakes. For that extra special touch, upgrade to Kerry Gold from Ireland or Plugra, a European-style butter.

Cream

I feel the same way about cream as I do about butter-a little goes a long way and can make all the difference. But I don’t just mean heavy cream; cream-based ingredients like crème fraiche, mascarpone, sour cream, or even cream cheese are all incredible tools for giving your dish the restaurant touch. I try to keep a container of crème fraiche and mascarpone in my fridge all the time; they turn grits, risotto, and pasta into a smooth and creamy treat. They also work great in an omelet or scrambled eggs, on top of fresh fruit, or mixed into mashed potatoes.

Spices

Your spice cabinet can provide a secret weapon for maximizing the flavor of your food. I love adding a few dashes of cayenne pepper to eggs and sauces to turn up the heat in an understated way, grating some fresh nutmeg into sautéed spinach for a hint of spice, or sprinkling smoked paprika onto Mac and cheese for a smoky flavor.

Fresh herbs

There is no substitute for fresh herbs. Finely chopped parsley, while not adding a lot in the flavor department, adds a fresh bite and can break up the heavy flavor of stewed and braised dishes. Chives are perfect for adding a mild onion flavor, and chopped cilantro with a little lime juice can take plain white rice from blah to bright. Remember to add fresh herbs at the last minute, this will ensure they stay bright and flavorful.

What to look for: If you have the luxury of a windowsill or a garden, it’s best to grow your own herbs because you’ll know they’re fresh and it’s economical. If not, store purchased herbs wrapped in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator. When buying herbs, look for intact leaves and stems, and shy away from bunches that are overly damp, soggy, or limp. Also make sure you give them a good whiff, they should smell like they’re supposed to taste.

 Hot/cold plates

OK, so this isn’t an ingredient or something you can purchase, but one of the things we learn in the restaurant is that hot food should be served on hot plates, and cold food on cold plates. This may seem like an added step you don’t need at home, but just a few minutes in a warm oven or popped in the freezer can add a special touch and keep your food at the proper temperature. Make sure you take precaution with plates that are not labeled oven-safe.

Snapshot: Handmade chocolate truffles

OK, so I realize that Valentine’s Day has come and gone, and this would have been the perfect recipe and how-to post to share with all of you in advance, but alas, my schedule had me making these the night before (till 1 am at that), so it wasn’t in the cards. BUT—I would be remiss not to share the outcome of my confectionary quest with you.

I decided to make chocolate truffles for my valentine this year, thanks to my added confidence in the sweets department, and set out to produce the highest quality treats I could. I consulted what has quickly become my new favorite book on all things chocolate, Pure Chocolate by Fran Bigelow, the creator of Seattle’s famous Fran’s Chocolates, to guide me on my journey.

Fran’s simple but exact recipe for the chocolate ganache filling was everything you’d want in a truffle—soft, melt-in-your-mouth, and full of chocolate flavor. I used high quality semi-sweet chocolate (62% cacao), unsalted butter, and the freshest heavy cream I could find to make the centers. I even infused some pureed raspberries into one batch to create a flavor variety.

When it came time to assemble the truffles, I put the creamy ganache into piping bags, piped out Hershey kiss-shaped dollops, rolled them into balls (some of which weren’t perfect, but I liked them that way), and dipped them into dark coating chocolate. This step was the real secret to my truffle success. I was able to take home some coating chocolate (which is chocolate that has already been tempered) from the pastry kitchen at FCI and this eliminated the challenging and messy process of tempering chocolate, ensuring the truffles had the perfect coating that set just right. You can find coating chocolate at speciality baking shops or online.

To make them really special, I dipped some of them in a variety of toppings including toasted coconut, roasted almonds, fleur de sel, and cocoa powder, filled some with cherries and caramel, and drizzled the rest with luscious white chocolate. I purchased a set of Ateco dipping tools in advance in order to properly dip the truffles, but I will say, I still made a big chocolate mess :)

Not only were these fun to make, they were absolutely delicious. My valentine was really impressed not only by their taste, but the time and love that went into making them. And really, that’s what this was all about.

I highly recommend picking up a copy of Pure Chocolate if you have a real interest in the art of working with chocolate, and especially if you love truffles.

Weekend Warrior: Pan-seared bison steaks

There’s another red meat out there folks, and it is from the free-roaming, home-on-the-range bison. With similar texture and taste to beef, bison is a leaner, heart-healthy alternative.

Using this classic restaurant-style method for searing the steaks in a hot pan, basting with herb butter, and finishing in the oven, bison gets the filet mignon treatment. Learn more about bison, why it’s better for you, and pick up the easy, fail-proof method for cooking the perfect steak.

Featured in my Weekend Warrior column on MarcusSamuelsson.com, read more here: http://marcussamuelsson.com/recipes/pan-seared-bison-steaks

Secrets of a student chef: Stocking up

A huge batch of chicken stock being made at FCI

When I started working on my “Secrets of a student chef” series I had all the best intentions that I would be able to put out a new lesson every week, and while things started off well, that crazy thing we call life got in the way once again.  For not long after I hatched my idea for sharing some practical and usable knowledge from culinary school I was offered an internship at the food industry staple Food Arts magazine.  I have been adjusting myself back into the 9-5 (plus school) life I joyously walked away from six months ago and have been reporting to duty as an editorial assistant.  It has been a very educational experience thus far and one that I hope will open some bigger doors for me down the road.

Food Arts is a trade publication for chefs, restaurateurs, and hospitality professionals and features the who’s who and what’s what of the food and hotel biz.  So for those of you who follow me on Twitter and have wondered about my recent spike in activity, it’s because I spend my days researching all things food and can’t help but share the good stuff.  With that, I will stop making excuses and bring you my next installment of “Secrets of a student chef”, a crash-course on making and using stocks.  Just in time for Thanksgiving, this lesson will help you get ready for the ultimate stock-using foodie holiday.

What are stocks and why do I need them?

According to Larousse Gastronomique, a stock is “a flavored liquid base for making a sauce, stew, or braised dish.” Stocks have long been used in cooking across many cultures as a way to enhance the flavor of dishes prepared using a liquid cooking medium.  Stocks are as critical to your pantry as salt, pepper, and butter as they provide a base level of flavor, and in many cases body, which just can’t be achieved with water.

What is the difference between stocks and broths? Are they interchangeable?

Food magazines and cookbooks are notorious for listing “chicken broth” and “chicken stock” interchangeably as if there is absolutely no difference between the two.  If you knew nothing about stocks and broths you would know after five seconds of weary-eyed gazing in the soup section of your grocery store that there has to be based on cost alone.  Stocks are always more expensive than broths, sometimes three times as much.  And if you still weren’t convinced, a side-by-side pour would make things crystal, well maybe cloudy, clear.

Stocks are made using animal bones and meat (with the exception of vegetable stock of course) that are either used raw or roasted, mirepoix (a mixture of aromatic vegetables like carrots, celery, and onions) a bouquet garni (herbs, peppercorns, garlic), and water.  The mixture is cooked low and slow, sometimes for several hours, skimmed of any residual fat and impurities, and strained.  Broth, on the other hand, is made using only animal meat, no bones, and is prepared in a similar fashion.  The difference may sound subtle, but using bones allows the gelatin found naturally in animal bones to meld into the stock, giving it the distinct body and flavor that sets it apart from broth.  When you think about the ratio of bones to meat on an animal it becomes apparent that more bones will be needed to produce the same quantity of liquid you could get from meat, hence the higher cost.

So what does this mean for you?  Can you use them interchangeably?  The short answer: of course.  But the reality is you will always get more depth of flavor and enhanced body by using stock.  How you decide is up to you, but as my chef-instructor Phil Burgess says, “don’t be afraid of flavor!”

Why should I make my own stock?

If you’ve ever watched The Barefoot Contessa or read one of Ina Garten’s books you’ll notice she always calls for homemade chicken stock. There’s a reason for that.  Just as with almost all homemade vs. store-bought food debates, homemade is always better.  The reason is simple—you control the quality and freshness of the ingredients going into it. You also control the amount of salt (which should be none).  Even “low sodium” stocks and broths are packed with more sodium than you need.  The purpose of using them is to establish a foundation of flavor, not add salt, that is for you to incorporate throughout the cooking process.

Making your own stock also allows you to utilize scraps from chicken, beef, and vegetables instead of just tossing them.  If you buy a whole chicken you can use the gizzards, and if you don’t want the wings, those too.  Cleaning off a cut of beef? Those extra bones and undesirable pieces can be the foundation for a beef stock.  You may not have enough to make a batch of stock right away, but my trick is to freeze the left over pieces wrapped in plastic inside a freezer bag, and when I have collected enough bones, I make a stock!  It’s all about preventing waste and stretching your food dollars.

When should I go store-bought?

There are of course times when buying prepared stocks and broths makes the most sense.  Time is the most obvious justification.  While simple in preparation, homemade stock can take a few hours, and for many of us, that’s just not a realistic proposition when we need to get a meal on the table fast.  I always have a *quart of stock in my pantry, as you never know when you’ll need it.

Veal stock would be the other exception.  Perched at the top of the flavor scale, veal stock is the most flavorful and full-bodied stock you can use.  In restaurant kitchens, veal stock is the base of almost all the meaty dishes. Made using veal bones—which are not readily available unless you ask your butcher—and cooked for 8-10 hours, it’s really not a worthwhile process for the home cook.  Unfortunately, it’s also not that easy to find prepared.  Gourmet grocers and places like Whole Foods should carry it, but if you don’t see it on your shelves, ask the store manager if it’s something that can start, stocking.

*My top pick for prepared stocks, based on both quality and price, is Cooking Basics Unsalted.

How can I use stock?

As I mentioned above, stocks are the foundation of flavor for a variety of cooking methods and can almost always be used in place of water (even pasta! Check out the post I wrote on cooking pasta in the style of risotto).  Here is a list of some usefull ways stocks can enhace the taste of your dishes:

  • Rice: Whether making a pot of basic long grain white rice or a creamy bowl of risotto with arborio, stocks will give rice, which is typically bland, a punch of flavor. This can also be a healthy choice too, as it won’t need as much butter, or any for that matter.
  • Deglazing: If you are doing a quick saute of vegetables, fish, or chicken you can deglaze (or loosen the good bits stuck to the pan) with some stock to not only release more flavor, but make a simple pan sauce by reducing the stock down until it has a nice consistency that naps the back of your spoon.
  • Braising: Braising may be my favorite cooking method.  You can take a tough cut of meat like short ribs, chicken thighs, or pork shoulder, sear it on all sides, pour in enough stock to cover it half way, and let it simmer low and slow until the meat is super tender.  There will be a whole lesson on braising in the coming weeks, so stay tuned!
  • Soups: Making homemade soup is a special treat, nothing in a can compares to the flavor and quality, or the wonderful aroma that will fill your kitchen.  Using a homemade stock will give your soup a fresh taste with nice body and won’t have you drinking ten glasses of water to combat the sodium overload.
  • Sauces: Almost all classic french sauces begin with a stock.  Whether Bearnaise, veloute, or white wine sauce, a good quality stock is essential to making a successful sauce.  Look out for a future lesson on the french “mother sauces” and how they are simpler than you think!

I could have created a list pages long with every possible use for stock, but hopefully you have gotten the basic idea about what they are and why they should matter to any home cook.  While most of us will likely go store-bought this holiday season, you owe it to yourself at some point to make a batch of homemade stock so you can enjoy the process and taste the difference.  When that time comes, try my recipe for chicken stock below!

Homemade Chicken Stock

For this recipe you can use a collection of bones and scraps you’ve kept in the freezer, or buy a pack of chicken wings and thighs, parts of the chicken that pack a lot of bone and flavor and are the least expensive.  Don’t bother using chicken breasts for stocks, they have very little fat and flavor and are better off being roasted to eat.  When possible, buy organic.

I have written this recipe as a blueprint for homemade stock, specific measurements are really going to depend on what you have available.  Assume that the amount of water you put in will reduce down by approximately 25%, so plan accordingly based on how much stock you need.  The ratio of bones to mirepoix should be 10:1, but it is certainly OK to eyeball this.  The more mirepoix you add the more flavor it will have, but be aware of the amount of carrots as they add a lot of sweetness.  Same goes for the bouquet ingredients.

Ingredients

  • Chicken bones and meat
  • water

Mirepoix

  • carrots, large dice
  • onions, large dice
  • celery, large dice
  • leeks (white part only), large dice

Bouquet garni (wrapping in cheesecloth not necessary)

  • garlic cloves
  • bay leaf
  • black peppercorns
  • parsley stems

Directions

  1. Place all the chicken in a bowl in your sink and cover with cold, running water.  This is to degorge the bones, or remove any excess blood and impurities from the chicken. Place the cleaned chicken in a large stock pot or enamel coated dutch oven and cover with cold water, enough to cover all the chicken by about 2-3 inches.
  2. Bring the pot to a boil, all the while skimming off any foam and impurities that float to the top.  Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and add in your mirepoix and bouquet garni ingredients.  Continue cooking at a simmer for about 2 -3 hours, skimming frequently, until the broth has a golden color and a light chicken flavor.  It’s not going to taste like much, and that’s the point.
  3. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a metal pot or container if you have one (helps cool faster than plastic) and let cool to room temperature.  Transfer the cooled stock into storage containers and seal well.  Be sure to label the containers with the date and the quantity.  If storing in your refrigerator, use within seven days.  If freezing, use within two months.

To use

It is natural for fat to rise to the top of the containers after it has chilled. You can easily spoon off the excess fat once the stock is cooled and discard before use.  It is important to test the freshness of your stock before using it to make sure it has not gone bad before you incorporate it into your food.  To test, bring a small amount of stock to a boil in a pot and taste it to ensure it doesn’t have a rancid smell or flavor.

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