Tag Archive for herbs

The finishing touch

A lot of things have changed about the way I cook since beginning culinary school last year. I have a greater understanding and practical knowledge of techniques, ingredients, and the science behind why things happen in the kitchen, all of which have made me a better home cook, but the thing that’s made the biggest difference for me is knowing how to put the finishing touches on my dishes, taking them from good to great.

The reason food tastes so good at restaurants is because chef’s understand that the lightest sprinkling of finishing salt, or the drizzle of a high-quality oil can enhance and heighten existing flavors, making your taste buds dance. This concept has been on my mind a lot lately, so I’ve put together a list of ways you can finish your dishes at home, no fancy equipment required. The ingredients I’ve listed below are likely to already be in your pantry, but if not, a small investment in them now will lead to big returns at the table.

Top finishing touches

Good olive oil

This sounds very Ina Garten, but she is 100% right, there is a time and place for good-quality olive oil. While the low-cost grocery store brand is OK for sautéing and roasting, a nice, fragrant, luscious olive oil is essential to adding a smooth finish to pastas, seared meats, soups, and salad dressings. However, you don’t want to use the good stuff when applying heat during cooking, that will only drown-out its flavor and render it just as good as your cheap stuff-save it for drizzling at the end.

What to look for: If you have the chance, stop by a gourmet shop to sniff and sip their different oils, and look for oils that smell almost grassy or herbaceous and have a smooth mouth-feel with a peppery kick in the back of your throat.

Recommended brands: My top picks include O&Co. and La Tourangelle.

Finishing salts

Tasting your food during cooking and adjusting the seasoning is the number one way to make your food taste great. And while kosher salt is what you want to have on hand to season your food before and during, the finishing touch should come from a finishing salt like sea salt, or as the French say, Fleur de Sel. It has a light, flaky texture and while its crystals may look large, they melt as soon as they hit your tongue, leaving a hint of salt and accentuating the natural flavors of your food. There are a million and one varieties of finishing salts available today, smoky, spicy, and even sweet, but you can’t go wrong with a simple and pure sea salt for sprinkling. It is also absolutely perfect on chocolate!

What to look for: Fleur de Sel has a delicate, granular texture that melts in your mouth and is great for all purpose salting. Flake salt, such as Maldon, is dry and flaky and can give a slight crunch without being too salty.

Recommended brands: In the grocery store, look for La Baleine, and if you’re looking for a wide variety of flavors and quality, check out gourmet retailer The Meadow.

Acid

One of the most underutilized flavor agents in home cooking is acid. Whether it comes from citrus fruit, vinegars, or even sour cream, a touch of acid can really tie together the flavors of your dish and provide that missing piece. The important thing to remember when using acid to finish a dish is that a little goes a long way. Whether you’re making a sauce, salad dressing, or even dessert, try adding a drop of acid, such as lemon juice, when you do your final seasoning taste test and adjust as needed, you might be surprised by the difference it makes. It is also a lifesaver if you have over-salted something, adding a few drops can balance out your heavy hand.

What to look for: During your trip to the market, always make sure to put a few lemons or some other citrus fruits in your cart that you can use throughout the week. Vinegars come in a wide assortment of flavors and varieties, but you can’t go wrong with these staples: balsamic, red wine, white wine, and rice wine (or mirin). Balsamic and red wine vinegars are great in Italian and Mediterranean cooking, while white wine is the perfect all-purpose acid. Rice wine vinegar is common in Asian cooking and has a sweet and light flavor that is perfect for stir-fry’s, salads, and noodle dishes.

Recommended brands: O&Co. aged balsamic vinegars, Pompeian red and white wine vinegars, and Marukan rice wine vinegar.

Butter

If there is one ”fear” I learned to overcome in culinary school it was using butter. I had always shied away from it, or at least the real stuff for health reasons, but as it turns out, real butter (used in moderation of course) is far healthier than any of that fake or “healthy” butter. Plus, a tablespoon or two added to a sauce or seared meat can work magic for flavor. When making a pan sauce, stir in a pat of butter after it has reduced to add a touch of richness and smooth out the flavor. When searing proteins, add some butter to the pan with fresh herbs after you take your pan off the heat and baste to seal in that crunchy exterior you worked so hard to get. See my recipe for pan-seared bison steaks for a how-to.

What to look for: Real butter. Not I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter, or Country Crock, or any of that spreadable processed stuff. Look for unsalted, stick sweet cream butter. Beware of brands that list “artificial butter flavoring” or “natural butter flavors” in the ingredient list.

Recommended brands: For your every day, I love Land O Lakes. For that extra special touch, upgrade to Kerry Gold from Ireland or Plugra, a European-style butter.

Cream

I feel the same way about cream as I do about butter-a little goes a long way and can make all the difference. But I don’t just mean heavy cream; cream-based ingredients like crème fraiche, mascarpone, sour cream, or even cream cheese are all incredible tools for giving your dish the restaurant touch. I try to keep a container of crème fraiche and mascarpone in my fridge all the time; they turn grits, risotto, and pasta into a smooth and creamy treat. They also work great in an omelet or scrambled eggs, on top of fresh fruit, or mixed into mashed potatoes.

Spices

Your spice cabinet can provide a secret weapon for maximizing the flavor of your food. I love adding a few dashes of cayenne pepper to eggs and sauces to turn up the heat in an understated way, grating some fresh nutmeg into sautéed spinach for a hint of spice, or sprinkling smoked paprika onto Mac and cheese for a smoky flavor.

Fresh herbs

There is no substitute for fresh herbs. Finely chopped parsley, while not adding a lot in the flavor department, adds a fresh bite and can break up the heavy flavor of stewed and braised dishes. Chives are perfect for adding a mild onion flavor, and chopped cilantro with a little lime juice can take plain white rice from blah to bright. Remember to add fresh herbs at the last minute, this will ensure they stay bright and flavorful.

What to look for: If you have the luxury of a windowsill or a garden, it’s best to grow your own herbs because you’ll know they’re fresh and it’s economical. If not, store purchased herbs wrapped in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator. When buying herbs, look for intact leaves and stems, and shy away from bunches that are overly damp, soggy, or limp. Also make sure you give them a good whiff, they should smell like they’re supposed to taste.

 Hot/cold plates

OK, so this isn’t an ingredient or something you can purchase, but one of the things we learn in the restaurant is that hot food should be served on hot plates, and cold food on cold plates. This may seem like an added step you don’t need at home, but just a few minutes in a warm oven or popped in the freezer can add a special touch and keep your food at the proper temperature. Make sure you take precaution with plates that are not labeled oven-safe.

Weekend Warrior: Lemon and herb farro-stuffed peppers

My new favorite grain to cook with is farro: it’s chewy, hearty, and totally verastile. In this recipe I’ve tossed the farro in a simple lemon and herb vinaigrette and stuffed it inside some sweet roasted peppers, a delicious and lunchtime meal, or the perfect side to a roasted chicken for dinner. Get the recipe, plus learn more about farro, over at Marcus Samuelsson.com.

Nature’s Bounty: Photo’s from The Edible Garden exhibit

Summer has brought more than hot weather to New York City, the sunshine has also welcomed The Edible Garden exhibit at the New York Botanical Gardens (NYBG) in the Bronx.  The Botanical Garden has transformed portions of its spectacular 250-acre landscape into The Edible Garden, featuring numerous vegetable gardens and multiple displays, demonstrations from food and gardening experts, celebrity appearances during four festival weekends, and exciting programs that demonstrate the bounty, economy, and nutritional value of edible plants.

I ventured uptown to the Bronx last Wednesday to explore the celebration of growing and preparing great food and was mesmerized by both the simplicity and beauty of the exhibit.  The Container Garden outside of the Haupt Conservatory (which is closed until November) featured a number of fruit and vegetable plants that were full of fresh produce.  There was also a Culinary Herb Garden, created by Martha Stewart, which filled the air with fragrances from herbs like curry plants, basil, and sage. Kids can also get in on the fun at the Children’s Vegetable Garden where they can learn how food goes from farm to table.

Wednesdays also happen to play host to a Greenmarket at the NYBG featuring fresh, locally grown produce and baked goods. While the number of vendors is nothing to compete with the Union Square Greenmarket, there was a nice variety of fruits and vegetables available for purchase. I picked up a bag full of produce, but my favorite vendor was hands down John King from Millport Dairy in Lancaster County (pictured below).  After nibbling on his assortment of cheeses I settled on the Monterrey  Hot Jack and have been enjoying it all week.

The serenity and fresh scents that surround you as you explore the gardens is something that must be experienced first hand, but I did my best to capture some of the beauty on display in the photo’s below for you to enjoy.  Understanding where our food comes from provides us with a sense of security about what we are eating, but seeing how it grows and what it’s like in the rawest of forms helps us as cooks to know how the flavors of fresh food work together.

Click on any photo below to open up the slide show:

If you are in the New York City area I highly recommend visiting this exhibit before it closes on October 17, weekday admission is less expensive than on the weekends ($10 vs $18), but you will find an impressive lineup of celebrity chef’s stopping by their kitchen stage on saturdays and sundays. To learn more about the exhibit, the NYBG, and how you can purchase tickets, visit their website at www.nybg.org/eg


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